5 Misconceptions New Designers Have About Clothing Manufacturers

Here’s How to Think like a Factory to Improve Communication and ensure a successful first batch


Misconceptions about clothing manufacturers can be common among new designers. Being aware of these misconceptions can help you catch potential production errors before they happen.

Misconception #1
Manufacturers can sew anything

The Reality - Clothing manufacturers specialize in different areas, and thus have different capabilities and strengths. If your design uses a stitch type that only a specific machine can create or a complex fabric, such as neoprene or leather, you must find a manufacturer that has the specialized equipment and experience to meet those construction requirements.


Misconception #2
I shouldn’t share confidential information

The Reality - You need to share essential details of your design to get the conversation started. You don’t need to send a full tech pack or your sewn samples, but you need to confirm the manufacturer can do the work. Be prepared to provide a few clear illustrations and answer questions about your design so they can determine if your design is a fit for their capabilities.


Misconception #3
I don’t need to sew samples for each new design

The Reality - You absolutely do. A sewn sample provides an opportunity for you to review the quality and accuracy of the work. It also minimizes production errors by revealing any mistakes before it is repeated hundreds of times. While you will likely pay for the sample, it can be used later for your quality control checks. Additionally, you will get a much more accurate estimate of costs by having a sample made. Some manufacturers even require you to approve the sample to ensure you have reviewed their work and understand the costing.


Misconception #4
I have a tech pack, pattern and sample, so I don’t need a production agreement

The Reality - A written agreement is always beneficial because it outlines details such as the number of units to be sewn, delivery dates, and, payment terms and conditions. If you don’t have an agreement, make sure your tech pack includes a Sequence of Construction, Bill of Materials, Pattern Pieces list (Cutter’s Must), and a Measurement Chart of your size range. (See our blog post on How to Use a Tech Pack Template). These should ensure the garments are sewn correctly even if you have a disagreement about timeline or payment terms.


Misconception #5
All manufacturers are the same

The Reality - Clothing manufacturers fall into two general types: Full Package Production and Cut and Sew. If you chose one expecting the services of the other, you will likely end up confused and frustrated. Take time to understand the unique services your manufacturer provides so you are clear on what they do or don’t do. Also, keep in mind that a factory’s business model or the type of work they will do can shift with the economy or demand. A great example is the COVID-19 pandemic. Hundreds of manufacturers halted independent garment production and shifted to contract work making masks. Be flexible or have a backup manufacturer in case one gets busy, shifts priorities or otherwise can’t meet your needs.


Finding a manufacturing partner is not an easy job, but it’s time well spent if you go in with a clear understanding of how they operate. Most likely, you will talk to multiple factories before settling on the best one for you. If you have already found a manufacturer or been through your first production, we’d love to hear what worked for you or what you’d do differently. Join the conversation below to share your ideas and suggestions with others.

Heather Zager

Patternmaking and construction are my two passions, but I am skilled in all areas of apparel design and development.

http://heatherzager.com
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