What are the Types of Clothing Manufacturers?

Learn the two main kinds of manufacturers and what they do and don’t do


Not all clothing manufacturers work in the same way and many new designers don’t realize this. Understanding their differences will improve your production process and save you time and money.


There are two types of sewn goods manufacturers, Cut, Make Trim (CMT) and Full Package Production (FPP). If you are looking to retain overall control of processes, working with a CMT factory is likely the best option. However, if you require assistance in all aspects of the production process, an FPP factory could be suitable for your brand. Both types of manufacturers can be found in the US or overseas and both will accept tech packs.


Full Package Production Manufacturing

This type of manufacturer offers the full manufacturing process from design concept to labeled and packaged garment with shipping.

FPP manufacture services include:

  • Design

  • Pattern making

  • Pattern grading

  • Sourcing fabrics and trimmings

  • Sample making

  • Production

  • Packaging and shipping

  • Custom finishing such as embroidery or screen printing

The advantages of FPP are great for those without technical knowledge or limited time.  Apart from sewists, FPP manufacturers have designers, pattern makers, fabrics and trimming specialists, and other experts under one roof.  They can source all the materials and supplies you need and get them in quantities that make sense for the size of your order. An FPP manufacturer will guide you through the entire process of getting your concepted launched, but be doing all of the leg work for you.

In the long run, they may actually be cheaper and leave you plenty of room to grow, but the entry level cost is much more than new designers can usually afford and many want to be a bigger part of the development process.  They have much larger minimum order quantities (MOQ’s) to offset all that support they offer under one roof.  Expect to make at least 300 pieces to start, but the good news is that you don’t need a tech pack. If you have one, though, you can get into production quicker and at a lower cost.

FPP manufacturing is a great option for you if:

  • You or no one in your team have good design, patterning or other technical skills specific to sewn goods.

  • You have the capital to produce a high number of garments and/or lack time

  • You want to scale into the thousands more quickly

  • You don’t want or need a tech pack

  • You have very specific custom work


Cut, Make, Trim Manufacturing

This type of manufacturer only cuts, sews and trims your designs into the full garment piece

CMT Manufacturers are great because:

  • They can do small runs more quickly

  • There are probably several right in your area, so they tend to be more accessible.

  • They can shift production quickly

  • Smaller batch is usually an option  

  • You can be more involved with the process of getting your own product to manufacture

Using a CMT factory allows you to retain control over all your materials and trims selection, as well as aspects such as tags, labels and any extra packaging. Using this production method can also give you an advantage in terms of tightening lead times and lower quantities, which can be nice if you have a lot of design ideas.

CMT factories have many advantages over FPP but mostly if you are a new to sewn goods and/or have limited capital.  This manufacturer will not only require sew by samples, patterns, tech packs, fabrics and trims, they will also need to sew a sample of your design first before giving you costing for any amount of production. Be prepared to provide them with a full and complete tech pack, though, so any technical experts you’ve hired should remain on your payroll and be available to revise your tech pack, or make a new one!

Heather Zager

Patternmaking and construction are my two passions, but I am skilled in all areas of apparel design and development.

http://heatherzager.com
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Why You Need a Tech Pack for Clothing Manufacture